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When in Romania

  • Brittney Cee
  • Feb 10, 2019
  • 5 min read

Romania is a jewel of a country, shrouded in folklore and mysterious beauty. Most likely, vampires and/or communism come to mind when you think of this little-known area of the world. People I spoke with about our trip cautioned, "Please be careful." Or, they asked in the most curious, humored, and sometimes perplexed manner, "Why did you choose Romania of all places?"

Frankly, I hesitate to share many details about Romania, because it is dreamy, intriguing, budget-friendly, and overall free from tourist traps. Withholding an opportunity to promote Romanian tourism would be most selfish, though. I simply must dish on the uniqueness of this European "hidden gem."

BUCHAREST AIRPORT

How to act?

To be my friendly, enthusiastic self

Or could that prove too much?

I may stand out

Grotesquely conspicuous As a vapid and ignorant white American

I studied for months

To learn phrases Pronunciations

And proper mannerisms

Ideally, to appear as any other

Unashamed to dive deeper

Or seek help

Yet, I already feel I am failing

All I've learned is stored...

Somewhere hidden

Nowhere near the tip of my tongue

I cannot even operate this elevator

Am I above or below ground?

(Spatial)

I am a speck.

(Time and matter)

The Food is my absolute favorite of any place I have traveled to. I still crave goulash and langosi frequently. Traditional foods provide an array of savory comfort: meat, potatoes, soup, bread, cheese, SAUCE, and spices. Italian and Mediterranean inspired dishes are also prominent. Food is cheap in Romania and portioned quite generously. Don't forget your cash, because most establishments do not accept credit cards.

Breakfast spread prepared by our hospitable Air BnB hosts in Râșnov.

Goulash, bread, and beer. I'll take them forever, please.

Carbonara from the Wonder Bistro & Bar in Cluj. Cream-tastic!

Langosi— cheesy, decadent fry bread—from CibinFest in Sibiu

Pepperoni and prosciutto pizza at a little joint in Cluj

Ciorba de fasole: bean soup with smoked chunks of bacon (*drool*)

The Nature

My husband and I were equally taken aback by the extraordinarily tall mountain peaks in Bușteni, the lush emerald forests around Cluj, and the rolling tree-covered mountains throughout Transylvania. And the fog—Oh, the mystifying, moody fog.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017)

Street-side views in Bușteni

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017)

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017)

Faget Forest in Cluj-Napoca. It is full of ivy, moss, and bountiful greenery. We accessed the trailhead directly outside the front door of our Air BnB, and the trail leads to a tiny village atop the hill.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017)

One of many strange trees in Hoia Baciu Forest. We booked a night tour through the Hoia Baciu Project, and it was just the two of us with our guide, Alex. As we hiked through overgrown vegetation by flashlight, we learned of the legends and superstitions surrounding the forest, as well as important tidbits of Romanian history and culture. Staring at bioluminescent mushrooms in the darkness was a memorably trippy moment. Such a one-of-a-kind adventure.

Cory and Alex entering the famous round clearing, Poiana Rotundă.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017) Mountains as seen from Râșnov Citadel.

The Buildings

Seeing as this was our first time overseas, we felt overwhelmed with admiration for the architecture in Romania. The medieval cities and structures stood out so elegantly, truly foreign to us, and setting foot inside castle walls made my inner child squeal joyously. There is such an interesting history here that you must discover for yourself.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017) Râșnov Citadel, the icon of the town

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017) The Council Tower of Sibiu as seen from the Bridge of Lies.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017) Bran Castle, famously called 'Dracula's Castle." It is loosely linked to Vlad the Impaler, as he was imprisoned here for a short time.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017) St. Michael's Church in Cluj-Napoca: a gothic lover's haven.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017) Peleș Castle (located in Sinaia). I cannot describe what an architectural marvel this place is. The details are mind-blowing. Just picture a fairy tale castle, and you will begin to get the idea.

(©Brittney Cunningham, 2017)

Wonder Bistro & Bar, Wonderland Resort, Cluj. We did not have a reservation but were thankfully seated anyway. Gourmet eats and drinks (along with gorgeous mountain views) in this high-end atmosphere were a whopping $25 USD for 2 people! Bring me back.

The People

We found Romanians to be welcoming and kind, and we were grateful to be in their presence. Apparently, it is not at all usual for Americans to vacation in Romania, so most people excitedly asked what drew us to visit and what we thought of their country. The majority of Romanians living in cities speak at least some English, and those that did not still tried their best to help us problem-solve.

We met 2 out of 3 Air BnB hosts, and they were delightful to chat with. Our host in Cluj actually invited us to visit again and go backpacking in the Carpathian Mountains with him and his family. He told us there are various tiny villages scattered throughout the mountains, some still thriving, others that are abandoned. We definitely plan to take him up on this offer in the future.

Driving in Romania, on the other hand, was a wild ride. Roads become scarily narrow (at least by American standards), and drivers are impatient and irritable with cautious tourists such as myself. Cory and I had a running joke that there were no rules in Romania. Heart attacks aside, I would rather have honking cars zooming around me in an alarmingly close manner than risk breaking the law as a foreigner.

(Photo by M. Cory Cunningham, 2017)

Agriculture and rural communities are widespread in Romania, and horse-drawn carts are a major means of transport. Be sure to watch out for these guys while driving!

Also, funny story, I got stared down by many people on the streets of Râșnov and laughed at by a couple of kids because of this flashy little shorts/spaghetti strap romper I decided to wear. I learned that even fashionable Romanians dress pretty modestly (especially outside Bucharest or Cluj), and boy, was I embarassed. Luckily, I had a sweater to throw on once we got back to the car.

The Lodging Taking the Air BnB route was insanely affordable, and the spaces were unbeatable. I would gladly choose these same locations all over again.

Relaxing on the patio of a private villa in Râșnov.

A lovely mural of Piața Mare in the downtown Sibiu apartment. This location was sleek and spacious. The only downside was its ceiling slope... I cannot tell you how many times Cory almost knocked himself unconscious!

And for the GRAND FINALE...this entire two-story cottage in Cluj! It was extremely difficult to get ourselves to leave this quirky little paradise in the forest. We were elated to have 3 full nights here.

So, have I convinced you to book your plane ticket yet? If not, tell me about your dream European vacation!

I'll catch you next time for a concise juxtaposition of poetry and pictures. These journals take me forever to write.

Peace out & enjoy yourself today! -Brittney Cee

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